The Shimanami Kaido is a must-do route for cycle enthusiasts visiting Japan. You’ll experience spectacular views of the Seto Inland Sea as you cross 6 bridges and traverse 6 different islands. The easily accessible rental and service stations, cafes, and accommodations dotted along the route make it one of Japan’s most popular cycle routes.
You can see the route I took to Tatara Bridge, plus all the key points on my Google Map.
Shimanami Kaido length
The entire route connects Onomichi to Imabari through the Setonaikai National Park. Between the rental terminals in Onomichi and Imabari, the full Shimanami Kaido length is approximately 75km (46 miles).
However, you can take many alternative routes to make this shorter. So, whether you are an experienced cyclist or a beginner, you can tailor the route to your abilities.
For example, you could start in Onomichi, complete 1 or 2 of the islands, and loop back around to finish in Onomichi. You could also split the ride over 2 or more days if this suits you better.
The best time to cycle the Shimanami Kaido
The best time to cycle the Shimanami Kaido is spring or autumn. The weather is good this time of year, but temperatures aren’t too high.
There are 2 events you should take note of when planning your cycle. Make sure you book your rental and accommodation well in advance during these times. The first is Golden Week, which runs from the end of April to the beginning of May. The second is the annual Cycling Shimanami event in October. You can check the dates on the Shimanami Cycling Website.
How to prepare to cycle the Shimanami Kaido
Shimanami Kaido bike rental
We rented our bikes from Shimanami Japan. The company has a variety of bikes to hire, including e-bikes. You can rent your bike in Onomichi or Imabari and return it to any 10 rental terminals across the route. These terminals are also handy if you have a problem with your bike en route and need to exchange or fix it.
It’s worth noting that you can only rent the higher-spec e-bikes for a maximum of one day. However, they do stock a battery assist bike with a lower range that you can rent for multiple days.
You can rent on the day on a first-come, first-serve basis. However, it’s best to reserve your bike in advance to make sure you get the one you want.
Make note of the rental terminal opening and closing times at the bottom of the Shimanami Japan rental page.
Shimanami Kaido accommodation
If you are starting in Onomichi, I recommend staying at the Green Hill Hotel. It’s in a perfect location: close to the rental terminal, right next to the ferry to the first island, and just across the road from Onomichi train station. We paid £70 per night for 2 people, including a buffet breakfast.
If you are starting in Imabari, Cyclo No Ie is recommended as a great place to stay. Although I haven’t stayed here, it’s rated superb on booking.com and caters to people cycling the Shimanami Kaido. It’s right by Imabari station and a 3-minute walk to the Imabari rental terminal.
For multi-day trips, a good halfway point is Omishima Island.
What about your luggage?
If you plan to return to your starting point after the cycle, you can leave your main luggage at your hotel. Just pack a small day bag for the duration of your cycle.
You can pack lunch ahead (onigiri makes a perfect on-the-go lunch!), or there are convenience stores and cafes along the way. Make sure to bring plenty of water, and for extra comfort, you could use a pair of padded cycling shorts!
If you are travelling one way only, luggage forwarding services can send your main luggage to your next hotel. The main providers are Yamato Transport, Sagawa Express, and Japan Post. Delivery is usually on the next day and varies from ¥2500 to ¥5000 depending on the destination.
Shimanami Kaido itinerary
I consider myself reasonably fit and have done the odd 20 – 30 mile cycle in the UK. However, I’m not an experienced cyclist. The longest ride I’d completed for a few years before completing part of the Shimanami Kaido was my daily 10-minute ride to work!
We were unsure how long it would take us to ride the entire route and only wanted to spend 1 day cycling. With that in mind, we opted for an out-and-back route that started and ended in Onomichi. That way, we could cycle for half the day, then turn around and take a slightly different route back. This is a safe option if you are unsure what you can achieve.
We chose to rent e-bikes, which cost ¥8000 each for the day. I highly recommend paying extra for the e-bike! Although we still felt like we had a good workout, it made the inclines to the bridges easier and the whole ride much more leisurely.
I was amazed at how much ground we covered! We cycled about 62 miles, taking around 5 hours and 45 minutes. This included stops to take in the views and rest breaks. We also took a 10-mile detour because we missed a turning… Oops!
On reflection, we definitely could have completed the entire route on e-bikes. And if we were to do it again, we would return the bike to Imabari and catch the bus back to Onomichi. Anyway, here’s more about the itinerary we completed.
Don’t forget you can view the full Shimanami Kaido route, plus all the key points on my Google Map.
Onomichi
We arrived in Onomichi from Hiroshima in the evening. The Green Hill Hotel was a short walk across the road from the train station. We took the South exit and headed towards Onomichi Wharf. It was pretty late, so we grabbed a ready meal from 7-Eleven for dinner.
The hotel was very conveniently located and looked like it catered for cyclists. It had bike racks in the reception area!
The following day, we enjoyed the hotel buffet breakfast. There were Western-style options, like scrambled eggs and sausages, but there were also many Japanese options, like fish, rice, and miso soup.
Picking up our bikes
The Shimanami Japan rental terminal is a 2-minute walk from the Green Hill Hotel. Head down to the Wharf and turn left as you are looking at the sea. The terminal is located inside a parking lot.
We headed to the bike rental terminal at around 8:30 a.m., and there was already a small queue. I showed the staff our email confirmation and paid for the rental. Keep hold of the receipt, as you’ll need it when you return the bike!
The staff were very helpful. They set up the e-bikes with the correct seat height and showed us how to use them. Once we were happy with the bikes, we grabbed our helmets and hit the road!
Ferry to Mukaishima
The first step on the route is to get the ferry from Onomichi to Mukaishima Island. It’s right next to the Green Hill Hotel, and there will probably be a bunch of cyclists waiting to board!
The ferry takes about 10 minutes and costs ¥110 per person, one-way. The fee is payable in cash only once you are on the ferry.
Mukaishima Island
As we got off the ferry, there were toilets to the left for a last-minute loo stop. We then hopped on our e-bikes and began our journey!
Heading out of the ferry port, we quickly found the blue line on the road indicating the Shimanami Kaido route. We soon hit the island’s coast and cycled by the sea. The Mukaishima rest area offers a great photo opportunity, with views of Innoshima Bridge.
We passed under the Innoshima Bridge before turning left off the road. The path to the bridge snaked around in a loop, reducing the incline.
You could cycle a little further past the bridge and up to Takamiyama viewpoint. We didn’t do this, but the guide map indicates it’s a steep climb!
The Innoshima Bridge is the third-longest of the 6 bridges. It’s also the only bridge with a unique cycle and pedestrian path beneath the car lanes. This was a unique experience, although the bridge structures did impede the view somewhat.
Innoshima Island
On Innoshima Island, we deviated from the standard route and took a longer route that hugged the coastline. Although, on our return journey we did take the more direct route.
We stopped off at a Family Mart for our first rest break and to buy drinks. There was also a toilet here.
It was lucky we had a rest, as we missed the turning to Ikuchi Bridge and ended up taking a 10-mile detour! This took us along part of the advanced route and up a steep hill. After a quick check of Google Maps, I realised we were way past the bridge! Although we got some great views from the top of the hill.
We turned around and cut inland to get back to the cycle path up to Ikuchi Bridge. This time, we cycled to the side of the car lanes, but we were still separated from traffic by barriers. It was good to have unobstructed views across the sea!
Ikuchijima Island
The route on Ikuchijima Island was almost entirely by the sea. About a third of the way around the island, we stopped at a Dolce Ice Cream shop. We sat outside, looking out at the sea, and had our onigiri for lunch. We then had some delicious Dolce ice creams for dessert. The shop had a variety of flavours to choose from. There was also a toilet and drinking water in the shop.
A bit further along the route are Kousanji Temple, the Cave of 1,000 Buddhas, and the Hill of Hope. They are all within a short walk of each other and definitely worth the stop-off.
We also used the Setoda Tourist Information Centre bike rental terminal here. One of our e-bikes was having trouble, and the electric assist kept cutting out. After some back-and-forth using Google Translate to convey the issue, they swapped the bike for a new one.
Tatara Bridge and return trip
On the ride up to Tatara Bridge, lemon trees were growing. There was a rest area called Lemon Bench, which was a good photo spot, and there was also a drinking water fountain there.
Tatara Bridge was the longest we cycled and the 2nd longest of all 6 bridges on the route.
After descending from Tatara Bridge, we turned left and went to Tatara Shimanami Park. There were a few shops, toilets, and the Cyclist Sanctuary, a grassy area with sculptures and benches. From the sanctuary, we had a good view of Tatara Bridge.
We decided to turn back here as it was about half of the standard Shimanami Kaido length. On our return trip, we cycled around the opposite side of Ikuchijima Island and followed the standard route for the rest of the way.
Other Islands of the Shimanami Kaido
We didn’t get a chance to explore the other Islands of the Shimanami Kaido route, but here are some recommended sights and attractions.
Omishima and Hakatajima Islands
The standard routes on Omishima and Hakatajima Islands are very short compared to the others. An alternative intermediate route takes you to the western side of Omishima and cuts back through the middle of the island. Or you could continue around the island’s coast, joining the advanced route. On the western side of Omishima, there are various museums and a saltwater spa.
Omishima Bridge is the shortest of all the bridges and will take you to Hakatajima Island. Here, you could take a steep detour up to Hirakiyama Park. It offers excellent views of Tatara Bridge and is popular during cherry blossom season.
Just before the ride up to Hakata-Oshima bridge, there is a roadside station called “Hakata S-C Park”. Here, you can enjoy salt ice cream. There is also a restaurant, souvenir shop, and toilet.
Oshima Island
The standard route on Oshima Island cuts inland. But there is an intermediate route that follows the western coastline. If you take this route, you will pass Yoshiumi Rose Park. You could also take a steep climb to Kirosan Observatory Park, where you’ll get a stunning view of the final bridge. Beware, if you don’t have an e-bike, you’ll likely have to walk most of it!
The Kurushima-Kaikyo bridge is the last and longest of the 6 bridges.
Imabari
After exiting the Kurushima-Kaikyo bridge, you can stop at the Kurushima Strait Observatory. From here, you can look back at the Shimanami Kaido and the final bridge.
The rest of the ride through Imabari to the station and Imabari bike rental terminal is through city streets. There is a mural outside of the Cyclo No Ie Guesthouse, which makes for a good end-goal photo.
Full Shimanami Kaido route onward travel options
If you complete the full Shimanami Kaido route, you have a few of options.
Depending on your direction of travel, you could use a luggage forwarding service and continue your journey from Imabari or Onomichi.
Or you could catch the Shimanami Liner bus back to Mukaishima Island (Mukai Higashi Bus Stop) and then the ferry across to Onomichi. The bus fare costs ¥2100, and you can buy your ticket at the bus counter window. The journey takes around an hour and a half.
Alternatively, you can take the Shimanami Liner bus to Innoshima Island (Innoshima Shigei Bus Stop) and then transfer to the local bus to Onomichi. The fare for both buses is about ¥2500, and the journey time is the same.
For a shorter ride, you could return your bike to one of the Shimanami kaido bike rental terminals en route. It’s then possible to use the local buses or ferries between the islands to explore other areas and make your way back to Onomichi. I’ve not looked into this in detail, so I’d recommend researching this and checking timetables beforehand.
Final Thoughts
The Shimanami Kaido was one of the highlights of my trip to Japan. The scenery from the bridges across the Seto Inland Sea was stunning.
We cycled 3 times further than I’ve ever cycled in a single journey! I was really surprised and impressed with what we achieved. The e-bikes definitely made the ride much more relaxed and enjoyable. Although we still felt we worked hard and had sore bums at the end!
For more adventures in Japan, check out these other posts!
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How To Spend 4 Days In Kyoto: The Ultimate Kyoto Itinerary
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